
Cotton T-Shirts From India by Town, Border Duty and Testing
Where Indian cotton T-shirts are made, what Australia, NZ, the UK, US, EU and UAE charge on them, which origin proof you need and what to test first.
5 min read
In parts of the Tiruppur trade a T-shirt size is named by its "dia", the width across the chest of the knitted body in inches, together with a body length, rather than by S, M and L. In the one trade example we have, a medium is 17 inches dia and 26 inches long. Convert your grade chart into flat chest width and length in inches, send both systems side by side, and confirm the supplier's meaning on a sized sample before bulk.
"Dia" is how parts of the Tiruppur trade name a T-shirt size. It's the width across the chest of the knitted body, in inches, quoted together with the body length, so a size is written as something like "17 dia, 26 length" rather than "M". When a supplier asks for your sizes in dia, it wants your chart turned into those two numbers per size.
The evidence for this is thin, and I'd rather say so up front. It comes from a domestic bulk buyer of 10,000 to 50,000 pieces a month, who wrote in a Quora answer around 2018 that "the sizes are actually mentioned in 'Dia' in tiruppur", with the example "M (17″ Dia chest and 26" length)" (from our forum-signal research, one old source, Reported). We found no second source that sets the convention out, so treat this page as how to handle the word when it appears, and confirm the meaning with your own supplier. Because that source is a domestic buyer, dia may be mostly a domestic and stock-trade habit. Our reading is that an exporter making to a foreign brand's tech pack will work to your chart, but ask.
From how the fabric is made. Most T-shirt jersey in a knit town is knitted on circular machines, which turn out cloth as a continuous tube. The trade talks about fabric by its "dia", meaning the size of that tube. Our source describes a T-shirt's dia as the tubular chest width, so the size is named after the width of the knitted body.
Our reading is that the word moved from the fabric to the garment because, for a body cut from tubular cloth, the tube width more or less is the chest. Whatever the history, the practical point is the same. In this usage a size is a pair of measurements, and the letters S, M and L may never come up.
Almost certainly the flat width, in our example at least. Do the arithmetic on "M, 17 inch dia". If 17 inches were the full chest circumference, that would be a child's garment. Laid flat, 17 inches across means a chest of about 34 inches all the way round, which is a plausible slim domestic medium.
That still leaves room for confusion, so never assume. Western spec sheets usually give a half chest measured flat, at a set distance below the armhole. A supplier's dia may be measured at a different point, or describe the fabric tube rather than the finished garment. Ask them to say where they measure, in a sentence, and to mark it on a sketch.
Take your chart's half-chest and body length in centimetres, divide by 2.54, and write both numbers per size. Here's a worked example using an imaginary chart, to show the method rather than recommend any measurements:
| Your size | Half chest (cm) | Dia to send (inches) | Body length (cm) | Length to send (inches) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 48 | 18.9 | 69 | 27.2 |
| M | 51 | 20.1 | 71 | 28.0 |
| L | 54 | 21.3 | 73 | 28.7 |
| XL | 57 | 22.4 | 75 | 29.5 |
Three rules make it work.
Send both systems. Keep your own size name, your centimetres and the inch conversion in the same row. If something drifts later, you can see which number the factory followed.
Name the measuring points. Say where the half chest is taken and where the length starts, usually the high point of the shoulder. Ask the supplier to measure the same way.
Ask how they round. Your converted figures won't be whole inches. Ask whether the maker can hit the exact figure or will round to the nearest size it already knits. If the nearest one is too far off, ask what it would take to match your figure. The answer tells you how flexible that unit is for your order.
Usually nothing obvious until the bulk arrives. A maker that thinks in dia reads your "M" as its own medium, and its medium may not be yours. The example in our source, a 17-inch chest, is slimmer than many Western mediums, so a range sized by assumption can come out a size small across the board.
The second trap is washing. Cotton jersey can shrink after the first wash, and a measurement taken before washing isn't the same as one taken after. Agree in writing whether your numbers are before or after a wash, and put a shrinkage tolerance in the spec. How bulk drifts from an approved sample, and what stops it, is on sample perfect, bulk not.
The third is grading. Tiruppur isn't one big factory, and the unit that knits your fabric may not be the one that cuts and sews, as the Tiruppur cluster page explains. If the size chart lives only in an email to the exporter, the cutting unit may never see it. Ask who holds the chart on the floor.
Five lines settle it:
Our RFQ template has room for the size table, and the sample evaluation checklist covers checking a sized set when it arrives. If you want someone in Tiruppur to measure the sample set against your chart before you sign off, SourcingSync (opens in a new tab) does that on the ground.
In the Tiruppur trade, the chest width of the T-shirt body in inches. It's given with a body length to name a size.
In our one trade example it's a medium, with a 26-inch length. Other makers may differ, so confirm it against their own chart.
Our only source is a domestic bulk buyer, so we can't say how widely exporters use it. Convert anyway, so both sides read the same numbers.
Take your half-chest measurement in centimetres and divide by 2.54. Send it with the length converted the same way.
In both. Keep your size names and give the inch figures beside them, so there's no room to guess.
Ready to act
Want the goods checked before they ship?
SourcingSync can arrange inspection in India and tell you what the bulk really looks like before you pay the balance.

Where Indian cotton T-shirts are made, what Australia, NZ, the UK, US, EU and UAE charge on them, which origin proof you need and what to test first.

India supplies about a quarter of the knitted babywear the UK and US import. Where it is made, which trims fail border checks, and what Australia, the UK, US and EU charge.
Yash Khatri founded SourcingFrom to give buyers outside India the full picture of sourcing from India: what the country makes well, where it is made, who makes it and how it ships. He reviews every guide on the site and holds each one to the same rule: say what we know, show how sure we are, and say plainly where the evidence runs out. He also runs SourcingSync, the hands-on service that does the sourcing work for buyers, and Kirnova, the data and intelligence company behind SourcingFrom Intelligence.
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